Crossing the Nullarbor on the Eyre Highway

Driving across the Nullarbor is a rite of passage for many Australians. The Eyre Highway runs about 1,664 kilometres from Port Augusta in South Australia to Norseman in Western Australia, crossing the top of the Eyre Peninsula and then the great limestone plain along the Great Australian Bight. It is long, flat and in places astonishingly empty, but it also passes some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in the country.

A short history

The highway is named after Edward John Eyre, the first European to cross the Nullarbor by land, in 1840–41. The East–West Telegraph line followed his route in the 1870s. A road was built in 1941–42 during the Second World War, but for decades it was little more than a rough track. Sealing began in 1960; the WA section was finished in 1969 and the SA section in 1976.

The landscape

The Nullarbor Plain is the world's largest single exposure of limestone bedrock, covering around 200,000 square kilometres. Its name comes from the Latin for "no tree". Beneath the surface lie extensive cave systems. On the southern edge, the plain ends abruptly at the sea in the towering Bunda Cliffs.

Route overview

1. Port Augusta to Ceduna: across the top of the Eyre Peninsula, through farming towns.
2. Ceduna to the border: the last big town before the Nullarbor, then the Head of Bight and the Bunda Cliffs.
3. The border to Norseman: through Eucla, then a long stretch that includes one of Australia's longest straight sections of road.

From Norseman, roads continue to Kalgoorlie, Esperance and Perth.

Highlights

The Bunda Cliffs

The cliffs drop dramatically into the Great Australian Bight and stretch for many kilometres. Several signposted lookouts sit just off the highway. Stay behind barriers: the cliff edges are unstable.

Head of Bight

The Head of Bight is one of the best places in Australia to see southern right whales, which visit the area in winter and spring to calve. A viewing platform overlooks the water. Check opening times and fees before you go.

Eucla

Near the border, Eucla has the sand-swamped ruins of the old telegraph station and views of the dunes and coast.

The long straight

Western Australia's section of the highway includes a famous straight stretch of road of about 146 km, often signposted as one of the longest straight roads in Australia.

Fuel and roadhouses

Roadhouses along the highway provide fuel, food, accommodation and camping. Distances between them can be large, so:

• Fill up at every opportunity.
• Expect fuel to cost more than in cities.
• Carry extra water and some food.
• Check opening hours, especially at night.

Quarantine and border rules

There are quarantine checkpoints for travellers entering Western Australia and South Australia, designed to keep out pests such as fruit fly. Many fresh fruits and vegetables, plants, seeds and honey are restricted. Check the current rules from each state's agriculture department before you go, and plan meals so you are not carrying restricted items at the checkpoints.

Time zones

You will change time zones crossing the border between South Australia and Western Australia. Some communities near the border use an unofficial local time. Keep this in mind when planning arrivals and roadhouse opening hours.

Driving safely

• Fatigue: take a break every two hours, and share the driving if you can.
• Road trains: give them room and overtake only with a long, clear view.
• Wildlife: kangaroos, emus, wombats and camels can be on the road, especially at dawn, dusk and night.
• Weather: crosswinds can be strong. Take care with caravans.
• Communications: mobile coverage is limited between towns and roadhouses.

Read our remote travel safety guide.

Camping on the Nullarbor

There are many free rest areas and roadhouse campgrounds. Follow signs, avoid camping near cliff edges, and respect fire restrictions.

Suggested itinerary

• Day 1: Port Augusta to Ceduna.
• Day 2: Ceduna to the Head of Bight and the Bunda Cliffs, staying near the border.
• Day 3: The border to Balladonia or Norseman.
• Day 4: Onwards to Esperance, Kalgoorlie or Perth.

Add extra days to slow down, explore Eyre Peninsula beaches or visit caves where tours are offered.

Caves of the Nullarbor

Beneath the plain lies one of the world's great cave systems, formed as water dissolved the limestone over millions of years. Most caves are not open to the public, and many are dangerous without proper equipment and experience. Look for signposted sites and guided options, and never enter caves alone.